Saturday, August 31, 2013

Sound, light and clouds in Singapore Gardens By The Bay

On their first day here, M&L went to the Gardens by the Bay. Everybody said things like 'you have to' and 'it's a must see' so they didn't really have a choice. By the time they got the day started on Friday it was pretty warm, and they walked all the way there... so they had run out of steam a little by the time they reached this highly recommended Singapore attraction. Leonie had heard there was a sound and light show each night at 7:45 and 8:45 and Miriam wanted to see the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest, so they decided to come back and visit one night during the trip. Tonight (Saturday 31 August) was the night!

This time they took the MRT system - the incredibly efficient, clean and regular train system - to Marina Bay then a quick change to the Circle Line and Bayfront station then up the stairs to Gardens By The Bay. There were quite a few people there - lots of kids and couples. A warm night (are they ever not, here?) and we all headed up to the ticket window for the domes. The ticket lady informed us that there was not much lighting in the Flower Dome, and we might not enjoy it as much as during the day. The previous ticket lady had informed M&L of no such thing, so Miriam made a sarcastic remark to that effect. Why she does it, I cannot fathom. It's not useful, helpful or dignified. And besides, it often falls on deaf ears. Like on Saturday night. So once Miriam had that little bit of nonsense out of her system, our adventurous duo of M&L bought tickets to the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest. Both these exhibits are in great glass domes, which are designed to be sustainable.  Miriam's planning to research more on this. Both exhibits are also new(ish) and so are the super trees. Everything needs to grow more... You can imagine in a lush, humid place such as this, the plants all seem to be jumping out of their bark ... there are new shoots, tendrils and growth all over the place, but in a couple of years all the man-made structures they are climbing on seem likely to be covered over with green.

But back to the Flower Dome... it's a dryer environment than the outside world and at night it's a bit hard to see anything (the ticket girl without the sarcasm radar wasn't wrong!). The little signs weren't lit up but M&L read bits and pieces where they could. So unfortunate thing number 1 was the lighting snafu. But there's more... of course there is because Miriam was there. The Flower Dome has a venue in the lower level and there was a celebration happening on Saturday night. A loud and enthusiastic host, tables and tables of people. It sounded like a mix between a dancing competition and a bingo call... The Flower Dome is (potentially) a wonderful meditative space full of plants from all over the world and instead the atmosphere was ruined by the goings on. So ticket lady warned us about the lights being dim and forgot to mention that our experience was going to be ruined by loud music and emceeing...  Look, M&L aren't going to make a fuss about it (M's little sarcasm burst aside) because they;re trying to have a good holiday, but even from inside the handbag I could tell there was a little bit of 'not happy, Jan' happening in the Flower Dome.

A whole raft of carnivorous plants in the Cloud Dome
However, the Cloud Dome made up for it. A cool, misty world with walkways that took us from ground level up seven stories (the height of the indoor waterfall, incidentally) I would love to see this place in a few years too... it is full of ferns, orchids and other plants of all kinds. There has been quite a bit of effort to turn the place into an educational experience, but the information is very light on - even with my limited knowledge of flora I felt there could have been alto more effort put into some more scientific info for grown ups. Disappointing too, to see the display of crystals that had large stalagmites on display plinths at one of the levels. They'd cut these things out of real caves to use as a display here? Oh, and Miriam wants to know if there were real frogs in the Cloud Dome, or if they were just recordings. And were those mushies plastic or real? She asks the darnedest questions.

The gorgeous supertrees all lit up. 
That segues into another observation that her smarty pants-ness keeps making about Singapore... this sense of it being a theme park. Lots of dumbing down and being nice. She always wants more harsh reality, more truth, more science... you know what she's like. People here seem to get along fine.

After the wonderful experience of the Cloud Dome, M&L took me out to the 8:45 pm light show in the Supertrees grove. Wow. We were all rapt. Music, lights... it was magical. Yes, theme parky, but we all liked it, and we made our way back through Bayfront to Marina Bay then City Hall stations smiling and humming. Well M&L did. I'm ceramic and the vocal chords have problems with even the littlest hum.

Singapore in a sock

If you used to read my witty little posts about MZ you know the whole saga. I don't particularly like travelling in a sock... she always puts me in a sock to travel... [yawn]. Nothing's changed, except that this time it was two socks. She tells me that's because she's sick of losing pairs so it was better to have them together. Double the humiliation. Half the logic. I give up.

Packing. I tried to get away...
We're here in Singapore... at the Fairmont, on level 25. The pool is on level 8. I haven't been there but she's there now... so I'm blogging in her absence.

Across the road is Raffles. That famous hotel with the Singapore Sling, which her Lonely Planet guide says is made better by other places, even though it originated at Raffles. She read the ingredients somewhere and realised it's a pretty sweet drink so she's kind of lost interest. Not that she's an expert on cocktails or anything (and they say sarcasm and gnomes don't mix) but looks like that's one type of drink I won't be hanging off on this trip.

So... plane trip was great. I was under the seat in the bag... marginally better than the overhead locker. 7 hour flight from Melbs. She's travelling with her friend Leonie, who is an expert at such things, being in the business of travel...

We got in during the wee smalls... a little nightcap then off to sleepy land. Friday (today) was our first full day and I was brought along for the ride. Fab. She took me out of the sock but the inside of her handbag is all linty, with small pieces of paper, wrappers, pen tops and the perpetual risk of an actual pen job... the surprise markup from a leaking biro is never as fun as it sounds.


My impression [and I acknowledge that this is extremely subjective] is that this is a city of guard rails. Somebody in city planning got a great offer on a job lot of railings and they've plonked them all around the place, painted in a range of (fun!) colours.  I managed to perch on a few of them as we travelled around today:

With Leonie - Marina Bay Sands in the background.
It has a pool in that section at the top of the three pillars.
The view from our room (green railing)

Caught blogging. I must be getting careless in my old age.

Leonie... leading the way...

The Merlion (in the distance) - silver rail this time.

Dragonfly bridge view - pink railing (see what I mean about the railings?)

Supertree grove at the Gardens by the Bay...

Leonie blazing a trail...

Topiary Urangatan

Ferny stuff

Pretty flowers, archway, path, elbow...

Checking out the seemingly suspended sculpture of a baby.
This bloke from The Guardian doesn't think much of it. 

Fishies big and small. That's my out-of-focus cap.
Pictures by amateurs. Great.

Delicious lunch at the end of a very long walk and lots of sights. Great hummus!